LEARN ABOUT THE WAVE
(THE FOLLOWING IS AN EXAMPLE OF THE TYPES OF EMAIL ARCHYSURF CLIENTS RECEIVE WEEKLY)
“I was having a great archysurf surf coaching session (Phillip island Smiths Beach, YCW Beach area) on the weekend with a student, when the beach conversation started to flow into talking about the energy/shape of the wave...(How and why)
here it is for you to learn from too, hopefully this info gets you thinking and helps lift your surfing.
To start let's look into the different parts and shape of the wave.
POCKET: The part where the lip is breaking, steepest part of the wave, most amount of energy.
GREEN WALL/FACE: Next to the pocket/less steep than pocket, less energy.
SHOULDER: Furthest away from the pocket/breaking lip, flattest part of the wave, least amount of energy.
We also have the top, middle, bottom and the flats (the flat water in front of the wave)
Simply put, the closer you are to the pocket the more energy and steeper it is. The further away a surfer is from the pocket, the flatter the wave is and less energy it provides to utilize.
HOW DOES THIS APPLY TO YOU ?
"The cut back, is a manuouver designed to bring you back to the power source of the wave" - Tom Curran
Ok my work is done here hahaha... just kidding.
so we've established that the wave has various energy in different parts. Essentially you can use this knowledge to have more fun, for example go faster...
Another thing to remember about the wave is this...
As soon as the wave brakes it's starts to loose energy / power.
HOW DOES THIS APPLY TO YOU ?
Lets say a huge closeout brakes in front of you.... the closer you are to the impact zone (lip landing on head or just in front of you), the more power that wave will have to smash you with... lol
A good rule of thumb is what I call the 10/ 10 rule. Meaning, if you are ten feet in front of the white wash, or ten feet behind the impact zone, you are safe.
Note: This scale can be adapted to suit the size of the waves, you might change it to 30/30 if the waves are huge, or 1/1 if the waves are tiny...
Now let’s look at the top and bottom of the wave.
If you ride the wave at the top you can always drop down to create speed (gravity) lol (hopefully we've all figure this out by now)
If you ride the wave at the bottom, you will eventually lose speed (until the white wash pushes you along again)
Using the middle of the wave is the easiest way to ride the wave from start to finish without losing speed. It’s also the quickest zone to access the top or bottom of the wave from. Intermediate surfers tend to utilise this zone the most, as a sort of comfort zone.
Using all parts of the wave means utilising the full range of energy available - Coach Luke
Advanced surfers essentially do 1 main thing different, they maximize the energy available (produce more power, go faster). They combine the wave, body, board and fin energy together.
They compress and extend the body at the right times with the energy of the wave and put the board on rail by leaning into the wave and leaning back down the wave.
Couple things you can try next surf..
HOLD PUSH & LIFT
Hold in a low body position for half a second ...
Press hard through the balls of your feet...
Lift your arms up to maximise the power and release the board.
(Note: this also works on a carve board)
Essentially it works kinda like trying to bounce high on a trampoline
LOOK & LABEL
Look at the wave shape carefully as you paddle out. Try to identify the parts of the wave and label the parts as you paddle over the wave.
Watch carefully and you may uncover new info on the waves you are about to surf.
Hope it's all making sense...Let me know how you go or if you have any questions.
ultimately I hope this info helps you lift your surfing and have more fun. .
Stay tuned for my next upcoming email on how to identify wave types, sections and manuouver choice.
Note: Manuouver choice is simply what maneuver works on what part of the wave. Example, we can't do a vertical re entry on the flat shoulder of the wave:
There's a bit more to this,